Fashion, in its most used sense, refers to popular styles of clothing. Fashion is notable for its specific feature – the popularity of style constantly changes and goes in waves. George Simmel, in the article “Fashion” (1904), argues that fashion is highly influenced by class stratification. At some point in time, high classes designate some form of clothing as emblematic of their status and wealth and start wearing it. As this style of clothing is recognized as a symbol of status and wealth by the lower classes they try to copy it and start to wear it. As the first style of clothing becomes more popular and widespread, higher classes have to invent new fashion to distinguish themselves, so the circle starts to repeat itself.  

Roland Barthes, in The Fashion System (1967), defines fashion as a visual language of a culture. Fashion as a visual language allows individuals to communicate their message. But the meaning of the message is not equally created by all the people, as the fashion industry uses its power to create the meaning and propagate it by fabricating a desire – a fetish. In his book Subculture: The Meaning of Style (1979) Dick Hebdige studied the styles of different subcultures such as punks, rockers, mods, and skinheads. The style of every subculture creatively combines a specific mixture ( a bricolage) of clothing, make-up, music, dance, and drugs. Historical, racial, class, and socioeconomic factors also influence the cultural context of every subculture.

In No Logo (1999), Naomi Klein studies fashion, the business of global corporate brands, production conditions, marketing tactics, and the ideology of consumerism. She critiques the rise of consumerism and its role in shaping modern culture, particularly in relation to branding and corporate power. She argues that consumerism is no longer just about purchasing products; it's become about buying into an entire lifestyle and identity created by corporations. Klein explains that companies increasingly focus on building strong brands rather than producing tangible products. These brands create emotional connections with consumers, selling not just a product, but a narrative and an aspirational way of life. Klein emphasizes how corporations use advertising, sponsorship, and celebrity endorsements to reinforce their brands and embed them in every aspect of our lives.

This leads to a culture where personal identity becomes tied to the products we consume. She also critiques the corporate-driven trend of globalization, where companies outsource production to low-wage countries and exploit workers while simultaneously pushing products that are marketed as symbols of luxury and success. Klein argues that consumerism, driven by branding and corporate interests, not only manipulates individuals but also has detrimental effects on society by eroding culture, worker rights, and the environment. She calls for a rejection of brand-driven culture and a reclaiming of public space and identity from the clutches of corporations.

References:

Barthes. The Fashion System (1967, in French 1967);

Blumer. "Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection." The Sociological Quarterly (1969);

Hebdige, Dick. Subculture: The Meaning of Style (1979);

Klein N. No Logo (1999);

Simmel, George. “Fashion”, in International Quarterly (1904);

Tarde. The Laws of Imitation (2013, in French (1890).